Subject: Re: Blue Mist
From: Richard C Harrington
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 01:12:18 -0500

Okay Bill, now for the main stuff.
On Fri, 19 Mar 2004 00:56:10 -0500 (EST) (william waller) writes:
> Richard:
> Thanks for your reply.  I've e-mailed Hans before and found that it
> takes a week or two before he replies.  I guess he isn't a slave to
> this
> machine like me, and I can respect that!  I am in no big hurry to
> buy a
> tent.  I just thought it would be something fun to try at some
> ambiguous
> point in the future.  Certainly take your time.
Just heard from Hans.  He has a new acrylic material that looks really good.  I'll keep you informed. 
> To answer your other questions, no, no, and no.  To be more
> specific, I
> have not done any cruising so far.  In fact, I am still green to the
> art
> of sailing.  Richard Johnson from North Carolina is gathering up a
> group
> of us Southeast U.S. W's for a possible cruise on the East coast. 
> The
> location keeps changing.  Last I heard, it would be Port Royal,
> S.C.
> The group wants sites with land camping and hotels as options, short
> day
> sails, fun for the family, etc.  It is a way to get my feet wet to
> the
> idea of cruising, but certainly not the jaunts that you sail, at
> least
> not yet.  Perhaps as I grow wiser, more experienced and the kids
> (presently 1 and 5) go to college unless I can convince them to join
> me.
You've got family with young children, that makes it tough.  The group sailing (rally so to speak) is great fun, however, to really get you bearings and have a learning experience you need to take a cruise just by yourself.  No distractions.  Total concentration on just you and the boat.  No one telling you what to do.  No one telling you that they have had enough and want to go ashore.  Going at your own pace.  Changing plans if you feel like it.  If you can find a crew member who is just as pumped up as yourself, an adventuresome sort of lot, then that's fine.  Otherwise you're better off going along.  (If you screw up nobody will know.)  This is just for the beginning when you are first getting your feet wet.  After one or two such trips you'll have gained a lot of self confidence.  Simple weekend trips with an overnight works fine.  Wait for good weather.   
> I do not have reefing, nor do I have a roller reefing genoa.  In
> fact I
> am in need of some new sails.  This is actually a higher priority
> than
> the boom tent!  Uncle Al came down to St. Marys, GA.  The wind was
> gusting 20+ knots, but he still wanted to go out and "show me the
> ropes."  The wind riped my 40 year old genoa.  As long as I am
> looking
> for new cloth, what should I consider in the way of reefing points? 
> How
> does your jiffy reef work?  How do the rollers work?  Can they be
> purchased at West Marine?
Of course it's all about money, isn't it.  Number one is the ability to reef the mainsail.  For coastal sailing you should have two sets of reefing points in the main.  I'll attach a couple of diagrams which will also show you the jiffy reefing setup.  I happen to have a small jib in addition to the genoa.  Being used to changing jibs on the fly I have not yet gone to a roller reefing genoa arrangement.  However, by far and large the roller furling/reefing of the genoa is very much preferred.  Harken makes a good setup for dinghies (yes, West Marine).  If you have a new mainsail made have a inflatable pocket sewn into it at the peak  Contact Allan Parry (UK) at for the details.
> I don't have masthead flotation either.  I have read that many
> Brits
> have foam sewn into the tops of their main.  Richard Johnson has
> recently suggested using a pool noodle with a hollow core for a
> cheap
> rnative.
> No anchor.  Speaking of such, should the anchor be attached near
> the
> front center part of the boat.  That is what I was told by the
> local
> bass boat shop.  Keep in mind, there are not many people that speak
> "sailboat" in Albany, GA.  Would you suggest a Danforth anchor? 
> What
> poundage?  Do you need some chain between the anchor and the line?
Without chain an anchor is trash.  Chain keeps the shank parallel to the bottom and assures that the anchor digs in properly.  I believe that the bottom where you'll be sailing will be mostly sand or mud.  A nine pound Danford should be sufficient, however, the CQR or Bruce is a better overall anchor.  (I'm chicken---I use a 11 pound (5Kg) Bruce.)  No anchor (except the fisherman) works worth a darn in weeds.  (Avoid heavy weed beds.)  The size of the anchor rode is based upon chafing, not strength.  To provide good chafing resistance the rode should be 5/16" or 3/8" diameter.  One hundred to one hundred and fifty feet is usually enough length.  The chain should also be 5/16" or 3/8" and at least 5 to 6 feet in length.  The best location for the deck cleat is directly in front of the mast and aft of the splash board.  (Be sure to provide a thick backing plate beneath the deck.)   
> No motor.  Betelgeuse was equipped with a motor and a lot of nice
> extras
> three owners back.  The prior owners acted like pirates and
> plundered
> her goodies.  They took the motor, compass, boom tent, boom vang,
> night
> running lights, anchor, etc.  I didn't find this out until I
> contacted
> the other owners.  I've offered to buy some of this stuff from the
> prior
> owners, but they are using it on other boats and won't entertain an
> offer.  In fact, they told me that it was a great opportunity for me
> to
> make my boat my own.  As for the motor, they said that a "purist"
> doesn't need a motor.  Some Wayfarers among our ranks on
> yahoogroups
> would agree.
As you know I don't use a motor.  (I'm retired and have time to burn!)  Also, I don't sail if the wind doesn't suit me.  You cannot paddle a Wayfarer very far unless you are a Mr. Atlas.  Oars are okay if you aren't fighting a current.  Anyone sailing where there are currents, and where the wind can unexpectedly die, needs to seriously consider having a mother.  Several people I know of have purchased two piece oars of the cheaper aluminum and plastic variety (used for rafting, etc.) and seem to be satisfied.  (Length 8 1/2 to 9 feet.)  I can put you in touch with them if you wish.
> No oars, but I do have the longest canoe paddles that I could find. 
> No
> oar locks either.  You may know from Al's pictures (check out his
> Midwinter report from St. Marys) that my boat has the added cabin. 
> I
> still haven't found out the history of the cabin, but there isn't a
> lot
> of room for oars with it.  Are telescoping oars available?
No motor!  You definitely need oars and oar locks.
> As you can see, basic info isn't beneath me.  I've seen Uncle Al's
> tapes
> on Wayfarer rigging and racing.  Cruising is what is lacking.  I
> know
> that you have enough knowledge and experience to make a nice video
> or
> web site.
> Back to the bailers...Al suggested mounting them in pairs, but you
> said
> that one will work.  On the instructions that I have read, it talks
> about one being open and one being closed depending on the direction
> of
> the wind.  How does that work if you only have one bailer?  I bought
> a
> nice little battery operated pump, but the bottom must touch the
> water
> that needs to be removed and it cannot fit under the floor boards. 
> The
> previous owners were kind enough to leave the little plastic hand
> pump
> though.
Eventually you'll want to add another.  But I sailed for many years with just one.  I frequently sail with both bailers open without any concern.  Racers are more nit picky!  The bailer on the leeward side will be doing most of the work--though sometimes it's hard to tell if anything is really happening.  With only one bailer you just have its usefulness on one side of the boat.  If your on the wrong tack and need to expel some water, switch tacks.  Going straight down wind it doesn't mater.  
> Getting back to "no compass," I've had my eyes opened for a vintage
> 1960's Sestrel compass to match my boat.  Every time I find one, it
> gets
> away.  Until then should I get a less expensive plastic compass?
For around $45 you can get a Ritchi 3" dia flush mount or low profile surface mount compass that'll give you good service.  You can see the low profile compass in the photo of Blue Mist you mentioned earlier.  The compass on the thwart is a larger diameter flat dial Plastizmo.  the Ritchi is about the best for the price.    
> Sorry to have showcased my ignorance.  Just think of me as a blank
> slate
> that hasn't picked up bad habits yet...your prodigy...ha ha ha 
> Thanks
> for all your help!
> Happy sails,
> Bill
It was fun Bill!  Beside the reefing stuff attached I'm giving you Ken Jensen's "My Way" diagram/description of his Wayfarer W1348 "Maitken".  Ken has sailed for a much greater length of time and in far more challenging conditions than I.  I think you will find some really interesting things in his arrangement.
The first two picture are of Blue Mist with one reef tacken in.  (The second photo also shows my small jib in use.)  You can see that the first reef runs just beneath the first batten.  The third picture is from Margaret Dyes book Dinghy Cruising and shows how the jiffy reefing works.  The last two pictures give close up views of the main reefed.
Until next time----DICK