Okay Bill, now for the main stuff.
On Fri, 19 Mar 2004 00:56:10 -0500 (EST) email@example.com
> Thanks for your reply. I've e-mailed Hans
before and found that it
> takes a week or two before he replies. I
guess he isn't a slave to
> machine like me, and I can
respect that! I am in no big hurry to
> buy a
> tent. I
just thought it would be something fun to try at some
point in the future. Certainly take your time.
Just heard from Hans. He has a new acrylic
material that looks really good. I'll keep you informed.
> To answer your other questions, no, no, and no. To be
> specific, I
> have not done any cruising so far. In
fact, I am still green to the
> of sailing. Richard
Johnson from North Carolina is gathering up a
> of us
Southeast U.S. W's for a possible cruise on the East coast.
> location keeps changing. Last I heard, it would be Port Royal,
> The group wants sites with land camping and hotels as
> sails, fun for the family, etc. It is
a way to get my feet wet to
> idea of cruising, but certainly
not the jaunts that you sail, at
> not yet. Perhaps
as I grow wiser, more experienced and the kids
> (presently 1 and 5) go to
college unless I can convince them to join
You've got family with young children, that makes it
tough. The group sailing (rally so to speak) is great fun, however, to
really get you bearings and have a learning experience you need to take a
cruise just by yourself. No distractions. Total concentration on
just you and the boat. No one telling you what to do. No one telling
you that they have had enough and want to go ashore. Going at your
own pace. Changing plans if you feel like it. If you can find a crew
member who is just as pumped up as yourself, an adventuresome sort of lot, then
that's fine. Otherwise you're better off going along. (If you
screw up nobody will know.) This is just for the beginning when you
are first getting your feet wet. After one or two such trips you'll have
gained a lot of self confidence. Simple weekend trips with an
overnight works fine. Wait for good weather.
> I do not have reefing, nor do I have a roller reefing
> fact I
> am in need of some new sails. This
is actually a higher priority
> the boom tent! Uncle
Al came down to St. Marys, GA. The wind was
> gusting 20+ knots, but
he still wanted to go out and "show me the
> ropes." The wind riped
my 40 year old genoa. As long as I am
> for new
cloth, what should I consider in the way of reefing points?
> does your jiffy reef work? How do the rollers work? Can
> purchased at West Marine?
Of course it's all about money, isn't it. Number
one is the ability to reef the mainsail. For coastal sailing you should
have two sets of reefing points in the main. I'll attach a couple of
diagrams which will also show you the jiffy reefing setup. I happen
to have a small jib in addition to the genoa. Being used to changing jibs
on the fly I have not yet gone to a roller reefing genoa arrangement.
However, by far and large the roller furling/reefing of the genoa is very much
preferred. Harken makes a good setup for dinghies (yes, West
Marine). If you have a new mainsail made have a inflatable pocket sewn
into it at the peak Contact Allan Parry (UK) at firstname.lastname@example.org for the
> I don't have masthead flotation either. I
have read that many
> have foam sewn into the tops of their
main. Richard Johnson has
> recently suggested using a pool noodle
with a hollow core for a
anchor. Speaking of such, should the anchor be attached near
> front center part of the boat. That is what I was told by the
> bass boat shop. Keep in mind, there are not many
people that speak
> "sailboat" in Albany, GA. Would you suggest a
> poundage? Do you need some
chain between the anchor and the line?
Without chain an anchor is trash. Chain
keeps the shank parallel to the bottom and assures that the anchor digs in
properly. I believe that the bottom where you'll be sailing will be mostly
sand or mud. A nine pound Danford should be sufficient, however, the CQR
or Bruce is a better overall anchor. (I'm chicken---I use a 11 pound (5Kg)
Bruce.) No anchor (except the fisherman) works worth a darn in
weeds. (Avoid heavy weed beds.) The size of the anchor rode is based
upon chafing, not strength. To provide good chafing resistance the rode
should be 5/16" or 3/8" diameter. One hundred to one hundred and fifty
feet is usually enough length. The chain should also be 5/16" or 3/8" and
at least 5 to 6 feet in length. The best location for the deck cleat is
directly in front of the mast and aft of the splash board. (Be sure to
provide a thick backing plate beneath the deck.)
> No motor. Betelgeuse was equipped with a motor
and a lot of nice
> three owners back. The prior
owners acted like pirates and
> her goodies. They
took the motor, compass, boom tent, boom vang,
lights, anchor, etc. I didn't find this out until I
> the other owners. I've offered to buy some of this stuff
> owners, but they are using it on other boats and
won't entertain an
> offer. In fact, they told me that it was a
great opportunity for me
> make my boat my own. As for
the motor, they said that a "purist"
> doesn't need a motor. Some
Wayfarers among our ranks on
> would agree.
As you know I don't use a motor. (I'm retired and
have time to burn!) Also, I don't sail if the wind doesn't suit me.
You cannot paddle a Wayfarer very far unless you are a Mr. Atlas. Oars are
okay if you aren't fighting a current. Anyone sailing where there are
currents, and where the wind can unexpectedly die, needs to seriously consider
having a mother. Several people I know of have purchased two piece oars of
the cheaper aluminum and plastic variety (used for rafting, etc.) and seem to be
satisfied. (Length 8 1/2 to 9 feet.) I can put you in touch with
them if you wish.
> No oars, but I do have the longest
canoe paddles that I could find.
> oar locks
either. You may know from Al's pictures (check out his
report from St. Marys) that my boat has the added cabin.
> still haven't found out the history of the cabin, but there isn't a
> of room for oars with it. Are telescoping oars
No motor! You definitely need oars and oar
> As you can see, basic info isn't beneath
me. I've seen Uncle Al's
> on Wayfarer rigging and
racing. Cruising is what is lacking. I
you have enough knowledge and experience to make a nice video
> web site.
> Back to the bailers...Al suggested
mounting them in pairs, but you
> that one will work.
On the instructions that I have read, it talks
> about one being open and
one being closed depending on the direction
> the wind.
How does that work if you only have one bailer? I bought
> nice little battery operated pump, but the bottom must touch the
> that needs to be removed and it cannot fit under the
> previous owners were kind enough to
leave the little plastic hand
Eventually you'll want to add another. But I
sailed for many years with just one. I frequently sail with both
bailers open without any concern. Racers are more nit picky!
The bailer on the leeward side will be doing most of the work--though
sometimes it's hard to tell if anything is really happening. With only one
bailer you just have its usefulness on one side of the boat. If your
on the wrong tack and need to expel some water, switch
tacks. Going straight down wind it doesn't mater.
> Getting back to "no compass," I've had my eyes opened for a
> 1960's Sestrel compass to match my boat. Every time I find
> away. Until then should I get a less
expensive plastic compass?
For around $45 you can get a Ritchi 3" dia flush
mount or low profile surface mount compass that'll give you good
service. You can see the low profile compass in the photo of Blue
Mist you mentioned earlier. The compass on the thwart is a larger diameter
flat dial Plastizmo. the Ritchi is about the best for the
> Sorry to have showcased my
ignorance. Just think of me as a blank
> that hasn't
picked up bad habits yet...your prodigy...ha ha ha
for all your help!
> Happy sails,
It was fun Bill! Beside the reefing stuff
attached I'm giving you Ken Jensen's "My Way" diagram/description of his
Wayfarer W1348 "Maitken". Ken has sailed for a much greater length of time
and in far more challenging conditions than I. I think you will find
some really interesting things in his arrangement.
The first two picture are of Blue Mist with one reef
tacken in. (The second photo also shows my small jib in use.) You
can see that the first reef runs just beneath the first batten. The third
picture is from Margaret Dyes book Dinghy Cruising and shows how the jiffy
reefing works. The last two pictures give close up views of the main
Until next time----DICK